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Let’s be honest — we’ve all been there. You spot a gorgeous lipstick in store, it looks incredible in the tube, you take it home, swipe it on, and suddenly you look like you lost a fight with a highlighter marker. What went wrong?
Choosing the right lipstick shade isn’t just about picking a colour you like. It’s about understanding your skin, your undertone, and what works with your natural features rather than against them. The good news? Once you know the basics, finding your perfect lipstick becomes genuinely fun — and a lot less expensive.
Here’s your no-fluff guide to getting it right every time.
Step 1: Figure Out Your Undertone
This is the single most important factor when choosing a lipstick colour — and most people skip it entirely.
Your skin has an undertone that sits beneath the surface, and it’s either warm (yellow, golden, peachy), cool (pink, red, bluish), or neutral (a mix of both). Your undertone doesn’t change regardless of how tanned or fair you are.
How to find yours:
- Look at the veins on your inner wrist. Green-ish veins = warm undertone. Blue or purple veins = cool undertone. A mix of both = neutral.
- Think about how your skin reacts to sun. Do you tan easily and go golden? Warm. Do you burn first and go pinkish? Cool.
- Hold a white piece of paper next to your face. If your skin looks yellowish next to the white, you’re warm. If it looks pinkish or rosy, you’re cool.
Once you know your undertone, half the work is done.
Step 2: Match Your Lipstick to Your Undertone
Here’s where it gets fun. Different lipstick families flatter different undertones — and once you know the rules, you can also break them intentionally for a bold look.
If you have a warm undertone: You’ll glow in shades with peachy, orange, terracotta, coral, warm red, and golden-brown tones. Think warm nudes, brick reds, and caramel mattes. Avoid anything with a blue or purple base — it can make you look washed out.
If you have a cool undertone: Berry shades, blue-based reds, plums, mauves, and cool-toned pinks are your best friends. A classic blue-red lipstick on cool skin is chef’s kiss. Steer clear of overly orange or peachy shades — they can clash with pink-toned skin.
If you have a neutral undertone: Lucky you — you can pretty much wear anything. The whole lipstick rainbow is yours to explore. Dusty roses, classic reds, warm berries, soft corals — go wild.
Step 3: Consider Your Skin Depth
Undertone tells you which shades work. Skin depth — how light or dark your complexion is — tells you how intense to go.
Fair skin tends to look stunning in soft pinks, light berries, and classic reds. Very dark shades can be dramatic and bold — but work best with a minimal eye look so nothing fights for attention.
Medium skin is incredibly versatile. Warm nudes, mauves, rosy browns, and deep reds all look beautiful. Medium skin tones can pull off a wide range of intensities.
Deep skin is made for bold, rich shades. Deep plums, dark berries, chocolate browns, classic reds, and vibrant corals look extraordinary. Avoid shades that are too light or chalky — they can appear ashy on deeper complexions.
Step 4: Pick the Right Finish for the Occasion
The colour is only part of the story. The finish changes everything about how a lipstick looks and feels on the lips.
Matte: Long-lasting, sophisticated, and bold. Great for parties, events, and when you mean business. Can be drying, so prep lips well.
Satin/cream: The everyday hero. Comfortable to wear, gives a slight sheen, and looks polished without trying too hard.
Gloss: Adds plumpness and shine. Perfect for a fresh, youthful look or when you want your lips to be the centre of attention.
Sheer: Low commitment, high reward. Buildable colour with a natural finish. Great for beginners or when you want a barely-there look.
Step 5: Test It the Right Way
Swatch it on your lips — not your hand. Skin on your hand is a completely different colour to your lips, which makes hand swatches almost useless for predicting the final result. If you’re shopping in-store, always ask for a lip tester. If you’re shopping online, look for swatches on a variety of skin tones before committing.
Also check the colour in natural light before deciding. Store lighting is almost always flattering — natural light tells the real story.
A Few Golden Rules to Remember
Finding your perfect lipstick shade takes a little trial and error — and that’s completely fine. The beauty of lipstick is that it’s low-risk and high-reward. You can wipe it off, try something new, and completely transform your look in thirty seconds.
Start with your undertone, lean into shades that complement your skin depth, and don’t be afraid to experiment with finishes. The “right” lipstick shade is ultimately the one that makes you feel like the best version of yourself — confident, put-together, and ready to take on the day.
Now go find your shade.
